A wireless keypad being used beside a rising garage door

Remotes & keypads

When the clicker
stops clicking.

Remotes, wall buttons, keypads and in-car buttons - reprogrammed, paired or replaced. Often a five-minute fix, and we will tell you if it is.

Save yourself a call-out

Before you call us.

Four things worth trying before you dial.

More remote call-outs come down to a flat cell than anything else, and we would rather tell you that now than charge you to find out. Work down this list - if none of it helps, the fault is in the pairing or the receiver, and that is our job.

  1. Change the batteryGenuinely the most common cause. A weak cell still lights the LED but will not transmit.
  2. Try the wall buttonIf the wall button works and the remote does not, the opener is fine - it is the remote.
  3. Stand closerWorking only up close points at a weak antenna or interference, often from an LED bulb in the opener.
  4. Check a second remoteIf one works and the other does not, you need a re-pair, not a repair.
The usual causes

What normally goes wrong.

Remotes, a keypad and fresh batteries laid out on a workbench
On the visit

We rule out the cheap causes first.

There is no sense replacing a logic board over a four-dollar cell. We check the battery, the bulb interference and the antenna, then test whether the opener is still hearing anything at all, and only then talk about parts.

  • Remotes, keypads and wall buttons
  • LiftMaster remotes carried on the truck
  • Old codes cleared if you have just moved in
  • MyQ phone control set up on request

Locked out of your own garage?

Most remote and keypad problems are solved on the first visit, often in minutes.

Call now604-230-3756
Several garage door remotes and a keypad laid out on a workbench
Why matching a remote is fiddly

It is not just the brand on the case.

The most common frequencies for remotes are 300MHz, 310MHz, 315MHz, 318MHz and 390MHz, and on top of the frequency sits the security format - 9 DIP switches, 12 DIP switches, multicode, Intellicode, Securecode, Code Dodgers, Security+ and Security+ 2.0. Security+ alone has two different frequencies and three generations of rolling code that are all incompatible with each other. Many brands also upgrade the electronics inside without any significant change to the plastic exterior, and manufacturers tend to discontinue models and replace them with new ones. Bring us the old remote and the opener model, and we will match it properly.

  • Frequencies: 300, 310, 315, 318 and 390MHz
  • 9 and 12 DIP switch, multicode, Intellicode, Securecode
  • Code Dodgers, Security+ and Security+ 2.0
  • Same case, different board - we check the electronics, not the shell
Tip: a door that opens by itself at night

If your garage door is opening and closing on its own in the night, check whether you are storing a spare remote in a drawer or somewhere it could be moved or leaned on. This is often the cause of the mysterious opening and closing.

Common questions

Straight answers.

Usually yes. Very old units without a learn button can be trickier, and occasionally the honest answer is that a new opener costs less than chasing parts.

In most cases yes. HomeLink and similar systems pair to LiftMaster openers, sometimes needing a repeater for rolling-code models.

Yes. A keypad outside the garage is the simplest way in without a key or a phone.

We can set up MyQ on compatible LiftMaster openers so the door can be opened, closed and monitored from your phone.

Also in repairs

More we fix.

From the workshop

Worth knowing before you call.

Thirty-plus years of doors, written down. Straight answers on springs, openers and what a door actually costs.

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